The local daily 'The Daily Yomiuri' reported an incident yesterday of a 30 year old JR Tokai(Japan Railways) employee who killed himself in the path of a shinkansen (bullet train) bound for Shin-Osaka. The incident obviously caused much disruption to shinkansen lines, forcing passengers to spend the night in the trains (quickly termed as 'train hotels' by authorities). Woe the inconvenience.
To me, it was the ultimate summation of the notorious Japanese neurosis about conformity and perfection- the much thrashed/talked about/debated/analysed undercurrent that seems to run beneath much of Japanese society.Better to stay with the group than freely express and be out-of-step.Tomes have been written about a culture's obsession with conformity. The very reason, it is said , that Japan rose from the ashes of WW II to become an economic superpower.
In this case, no moving dirges for the dead man. Just a reprimand that follows him right upto heaven along with his secret sorrow.
A 'normal' incident so far with all its connotations of urban angst.But the clincher really was the statement issued by a JR spokesman (the dead man's employers) the next day. The company spokesperson issued an apology (or their idea of it). And I quote - " It is inexusable (behaviour) for a person who works for the railway and we'd like to apologise to anyone inconvenienced by this accident". Not a word of regret about the tragic death of a man who was till then a part of their 'family'.
To me, it was the ultimate summation of the notorious Japanese neurosis about conformity and perfection- the much thrashed/talked about/debated/analysed undercurrent that seems to run beneath much of Japanese society.Better to stay with the group than freely express and be out-of-step.Tomes have been written about a culture's obsession with conformity. The very reason, it is said , that Japan rose from the ashes of WW II to become an economic superpower.
Tokyo's crowded downtown throbs with a subtle edginess that is neither seen nor spoken.Men in black suits, women in stilettos seem to march to a tune singed in their psyche.Have to get to work on time. No room for error.
I have heard friends (foreigners like me) say that Tokyo seems noiseless- silent. It is. And neat,civil and orderly. No unwanted decibels, barring the incessant cackle of psychedelic neon boards.... or..
..the scream of ambulance sirens rending through the downtown air, as if heralding yet another victim of the city's neurosis. It could well be Tokyo's refrain. Clues to a frenzy that is otherwise well contained.On a tight leash. Maybe I'm imagining.
Or...the slow throbbing menace of a million red lights in the night, atop Tokyo's skyscrapers (watch the movie Babel). The view from the top is of a Star Wars city - only driven by a rumbling manic tension - deep down - much like its own earthquakes.
If anyone had doubts, the suicide incident (and the statement later) seemed to flash the dire message , clear. No sympathy for the one who messes with the good of the pack. 'The nail that sticks out gets pounded', warns a Japanese proverb.
In this case, no moving dirges for the dead man. Just a reprimand that follows him right upto heaven along with his secret sorrow.
This is the land where there is a word for 'death by overwork'. It is 'karoshi'.
PS: Two recent movies Hollywood movies- 'Lost in Translation' and 'Babel' -pretty much capture Tokyo's manic tension. Catch them if you havent.
4 comments:
well written...and true - the underlying tension of a city on the move and of conformity. Yet, the JR insensitivity should not be misinterpreted by readers to be something one would come to expect of japanese people as a whole.
as usual, and as is true of so many things japanese..there is also the completely opposite gentler, brighter side of tokyo...many of your blogs capture that too... keep writing:-)
yes. babel movie surprised me too, the state the teenager was in
Nicely written and great observation. I remember armies of Japanese walking to the subway in the morning. It was hard to tell them apart - almost all men were suited and well groomed and a rare person spoke english. The one that did, bothered to walk with me for 10 minutes to show me where to go and then bowed as he left (I shouldve been the one doing the bowing for the unexpected generosity in his help)
I remember when the recruit scandal leaked out (nakasone), the people I knew in Tokyo were unanimous in saying that he should kill himself to salvage his honor. Coming from a place where one gets away with anything, this was shocking and said much about the culture.
I'd go back to Japan but the claustrophobia of being packed into small places and their penchant for communal bathing are two no-no's :-)
anurag
Anurag - "army" is quite right! There is a certain group rhythm to the sea of Tokyo commuters I see in the mornings! Almost marching in single file!
There were infact a couple of suicides by ministers over a scandal,reported recently.I thought the same - ever imagine our ministers doing something like that..
Of course there is also apparently a darker side of Japan where cosy deals are struck regularly and bribing is common...
The man you met isnt the exception. Tokyoiites are the most polite and helpful people (sure on the surface)- you'll know when you get lost in Tokyo...most take pains to direct you to the place, despite lang probs...
You could give Japan a shot once more!Madly interesting of course. And..if you are from Mumbai small spaces shdnt bother you?! As for the other - u can happily esacpe it - like we have! cheers
Rodrigo - thanks for visiting my blog! I would blog roll you if I understood Portugese! :)
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