Gion and the geishas

If one could peel through layers of time, somewhere hidden in Kyoto's narrow alleys is Sayuri's world (Memoirs of a Geisha - by Arthur Golden). One expects to see geishas flitting around while hand drawn rickshaws ferry rich 'dannas' (patrons) in pursuit of an evening with their favourite geisha.

But todays Gion - the most famous geisha district in Kyoto- might be a shadow of its past glory. We saw fewer geishas and the dannas were probably struggling to find parking space for their Hondas in the closest lot! But the mysterious world of geikos and maikos (geisha and apprentice in Kyoto dialect) is all there to be felt in Gion's interesting alleys.

Peter Mcintosh's walk takes you through narrow cobblestoned lanes closed-in by dank wooden houses and rows of red lanterns..Entry into teahouses is restricted (No grubby toursits).Occasionally Peter nudges us to show us an approaching geisha. The geisha- probably a 'maiko' - apprentice geisha - flutters past in a colourful kimono and high heeled wooden clogs in short mincing footsteps like fluttering butterflies. Before you recover from a crippling bout of awe and nervousness the geisha is gone leaving behind a shaky digital picture with you!

The 'okiya's (geisha houses) still stand. Wooden houses with names of the geishas at the door.So does the Gion Kaburenjo theatre - venue of the annual spring dance and Minami za, a Kabuki theatre past the bridge at Shijo dori . And the geisha school where Sayuri and Pumpkin cut their teeth.









For anyone who has read the book(by no means the best/most authentic representation of Kyoto's geishas) - this is where fiction becomes reality, ignoring the Starbucks round the corner.

The Ichiriki Teahouse - the biggest teahouse in Gion - the scene of many bitter face offs between Sayuri, Mameha-san and Hatsumomo - stands at a corner in Gion - an imposing wooden structure.

The weeping cherry blossoms dripping into Gions gurgling canals with wooden bridges;

Rows of wooden eateries on the edge reflecting their light into the water and cherry blossoms lit up by a thousand lights - all exuded the aura of a movie set that evening.

To cap our trip we took seats at the Gion Kaburenjo thatre to watch Miyako Odori - the annual spring dance performed every April by Gion's geikos and maikos. After hurredly guzzling down our 50th cup (or so) of bitter matcha (thick sludgy green tea) in Kyoto -a package deal with the 4000 Y tickets...

As the curtain opened,the geisha music ensemble of shamisens,drums and flutes burst to life.A string of bright kimonos make their entry "like a string of beads".Painted expressionless faces, keep the mystery intact. As geishas twirled gracefully, wafting in the background were lilting strains from the assortment of small string,wind and percussion instruments and thin plaintive voices singing about spring,lovers' pain and longing (so it seemed).Not surprising that the dances had no unbridled movements, no assertive thumps on the stage - no jhatka matkas , if you get my drift. All contained and set to a structured pattern. Never enough to say- in Japan there is simply no place for maverick expression , even in a dance...

I hope to one day crack the mysteries of technology and get video shots up on this blog.Miyako Odori is best seen and heard.Until then this has to suffice...