Random notes on Hanoi

Hanoi is one of those places that works infallibly on the Divine Laws of Traffic Intersections. The law ensures that when a body (you) steps into a fast stream of vehicles (mostly 2 wheelers) nothing happens to it - like liquids, the 'stream' finds its own path and swerves artistically around you (the body). The rush of mopeds interlace and create their own merry pattern like a weavers weave.

Crossing the road can be traumatic in India. Its like a combat zone where you multitask - cross the road and stay alive. But in Hanoi despite the chaos, crossing a busy street is easily done with the tranquility of a Buddhist monk walking on water. You just have to surrender to its beliefs and step on a busy street. While the Non Believers shift and shuffle, you have already - calmly- made it to the other side.

In short, alls well and pleasantly chaotic on the streets of Hanoi. That quaint city in N.Vietnam. Our brief retreat this summer.

In all our 5 years in Singapore we loved our holidays to these wonderful parts of SE Asia....Indonesia/Bali,Malaysia, Cambodia,Thailand....all fabulous worlds packed with sights,sounds,food,culture.Strains of the Indonesian 'gamelan' (musical orchestra), the lilting Javanese ballet of Ramayana and Mahabharata, Cambodia's awesome monuments, Bali's arts, Malaysia's beaches..... all make for aching nostalgia for me. Theres so much to see yet, I doubt I'll ever make it to other places down my list.

Hanoi city to the North of Vietnam was not the centre of the Vietnam War. For a sense of the turbulent years Ho Chin Minh (or Saigon) in the South is probably the place to be in. Hanoi - part Asian, part residual French and all Communist - is fuelled by merry chaos and for a second you might even think you are in an Indian city in all that din of honking- except scaled down 20 times and the presence of straw hats.

Two wheelers are the hottest accesories this side of the Mekong. As if by Communist decree - 'one moped- to every Hanoiian'. Or 2 or 3 or maybe 4 Hanoiians if they so wish. These 2 wheeled wonders are zipping around the city's streets, all day, like worker ants. Carrying human cargo - Vietnamese beauties hiding those well chiselled cheek bones behind face masks that are also patches of creative expressions - Hello Kitty motifs, florals,wild colours...or carrying men, families, entire family trees. These wondrous machines - collectively a moving Silk Route for Hanoi - also carry - vegetables, chicken, porcelain vases,chairs tables....its the Hanoiian's prerogative to chose.

To get a full rush of the adventure just hop onto a 'cyclo' ( manually pedalled rickshaws) and leave everything to God and the Will of the cyclo man who (you pray) has your good at heart. The circles/roundabouts are the scariest. Its like hurling full speed into a whirlpool of two wheelers that are pouring in blithely from all directions (the cyclo man hides behind you - the coward) and not knowing how its all going to end. I am alive to tell the story. And thats enough of the end you need to know!

Hanoiians seemed a hardy lot.Especially the women who could be seen in all kinds of trades by the roadside, in shops, on the roads heaving those heavy poles on their shoulders. A fiery bargain now and then was quite normal. After the severe politeness of Japan it was a relief to let off some steam!

Hanoi's crowded 'Old Quarters' overflowed with people and enterprise. Gravestones, fake money (for the dead), silk, paintings...all vying to get the tourist's attention. Hanoi's architecture is clue to its French connections in the narrow old world buildings tucked away in the lanes of the Old Quarter. Some of them were home to interesting cafes that beckoned you with all that charecter and atmosphere.

Hanoi definitely teased our senses and we revelled in its energy for the days we spent there.More about Uncle Ho,the delightful Water Puppets and divine vegetarian food in my next posts....

Ja Mata.