Gion and the geishas

If one could peel through layers of time, somewhere hidden in Kyoto's narrow alleys is Sayuri's world (Memoirs of a Geisha - by Arthur Golden). One expects to see geishas flitting around while hand drawn rickshaws ferry rich 'dannas' (patrons) in pursuit of an evening with their favourite geisha.

But todays Gion - the most famous geisha district in Kyoto- might be a shadow of its past glory. We saw fewer geishas and the dannas were probably struggling to find parking space for their Hondas in the closest lot! But the mysterious world of geikos and maikos (geisha and apprentice in Kyoto dialect) is all there to be felt in Gion's interesting alleys.

Peter Mcintosh's walk takes you through narrow cobblestoned lanes closed-in by dank wooden houses and rows of red lanterns..Entry into teahouses is restricted (No grubby toursits).Occasionally Peter nudges us to show us an approaching geisha. The geisha- probably a 'maiko' - apprentice geisha - flutters past in a colourful kimono and high heeled wooden clogs in short mincing footsteps like fluttering butterflies. Before you recover from a crippling bout of awe and nervousness the geisha is gone leaving behind a shaky digital picture with you!

The 'okiya's (geisha houses) still stand. Wooden houses with names of the geishas at the door.So does the Gion Kaburenjo theatre - venue of the annual spring dance and Minami za, a Kabuki theatre past the bridge at Shijo dori . And the geisha school where Sayuri and Pumpkin cut their teeth.









For anyone who has read the book(by no means the best/most authentic representation of Kyoto's geishas) - this is where fiction becomes reality, ignoring the Starbucks round the corner.

The Ichiriki Teahouse - the biggest teahouse in Gion - the scene of many bitter face offs between Sayuri, Mameha-san and Hatsumomo - stands at a corner in Gion - an imposing wooden structure.

The weeping cherry blossoms dripping into Gions gurgling canals with wooden bridges;

Rows of wooden eateries on the edge reflecting their light into the water and cherry blossoms lit up by a thousand lights - all exuded the aura of a movie set that evening.

To cap our trip we took seats at the Gion Kaburenjo thatre to watch Miyako Odori - the annual spring dance performed every April by Gion's geikos and maikos. After hurredly guzzling down our 50th cup (or so) of bitter matcha (thick sludgy green tea) in Kyoto -a package deal with the 4000 Y tickets...

As the curtain opened,the geisha music ensemble of shamisens,drums and flutes burst to life.A string of bright kimonos make their entry "like a string of beads".Painted expressionless faces, keep the mystery intact. As geishas twirled gracefully, wafting in the background were lilting strains from the assortment of small string,wind and percussion instruments and thin plaintive voices singing about spring,lovers' pain and longing (so it seemed).Not surprising that the dances had no unbridled movements, no assertive thumps on the stage - no jhatka matkas , if you get my drift. All contained and set to a structured pattern. Never enough to say- in Japan there is simply no place for maverick expression , even in a dance...

I hope to one day crack the mysteries of technology and get video shots up on this blog.Miyako Odori is best seen and heard.Until then this has to suffice...

Kyoto - past or present?

Kyoto is two and a half hours flat from Tokyo on the 'shinkansen' - a.k.a the bullet train. A 6-8 hour journey slashed down mercilessly. I think I'm just in love with the idea of the bullet train. There are trains as fast (the French TGV faster) but none as romantic as this - in my eyes. The sleek sharp nosed 'nozomi' (hope in Japanese) super fast express shears through Japan's crowded countryside with not a rattle, at speeds higher than 300 km/hr. Occasionally a Mt Fuji may appear in the horizon making you feel you are in a postcard.


Japan's countryside seems perpetually dotted with human living.The unending stretch of habitation makes sense when you realise that Japan's 130 million are squeezed into just 25 % of habitable land (75% mountainous),making it one of the densest countries in the world.

Kyoto is the cultural epicentre of Japan. It is said,that it is where the Japanese come to feel more Japanese.Before a visit, it might help to keep in mind , that Kyoto is among the most visited tourist destinations after Mecca (a big chunk of it -domestic tourists). A detail we should have checked before dreaming of quiet strolls in Zen gardens and peaceful shrines! More about that later.

The Seikoro ryokan (a Japanese inn) , where we stayed, was quaint enough to give us an authentic experience but tailored enough to offer English breakfast! Would probably make a purist cringe. But we were the earnest vegetarians ready for the Japanese experience sans the sashimi (and armed with MTR 'tadka dal' in our bag just in case).The culinary dimension of a ryokan lost on us, we persisted by sleeping on 'futon' mattresses (very comfortable), quaffing all the bitter green tea served by sweet Hiromi and flip flopping in slippers wearing crisply laundered cotton yukatas.We also bypassed the 'onsen' (public bath) experience and stuck to using the match box sized facility attached to our room..we really have'nt done well with the purists so far.

The aura in the ryokan was personal. The warm woody interiors striking the right chord.Every entry into the ryokan was greeted with a gush of bowing (but of course) and greetings. And the shoe-removing, slipper -donning ritual. In Japan I am beginning to understand the seriousness of neatly lined footwear.We got a clue of it last year, when our housing agents at each house-viewing visit, cleaned up after us (our carelessly flung shoes- pointing in different directions-a sin I am sure punishable in Japanese hell).The definitive moment when the red neons flashed in our minds- 'Welcome to Japan'!

After Tokyo, Kyoto (interestingly anagrammatic) seemed like a small town/city- more laid back and relaxed. In many ways reminding me of Mysore (city in S.India). Or an organised Phnom Penh(Cambodia).Certainly more 'Asian' and down to earth.

But dont get this wrong.Kyoto is as modern as it is traditional, has its own Park Avenue (Shijo dori) and a bustling nightlife.We may not have staggered out of pubs but we certainly loved munching our vegetarian sandwiches in some of the atmospheric cafes around.

Sometimes one wonders if Kyoto is on the edge of two worlds - past and present - not quite sure where/what to turn to.

Some other Kyoto experiences we carried back -

-Hajime Hirooka (or Johnnie Hillwalker) the wisened tour guide who takes you on a 5 hour walking tour of inner Kyoto."World famous guide"."Walk in Kyoto-Talk in English". "Slow,easy,no up and down". "No reservations". Just show up at Kyoto Station at 10 am. And show up we did - a drove of eager tourists. In many ways Hajime Hirooka could be Kyoto in human form - old and wise yet shrewd enough to be in with today's flow.

-The unending line up of shrines and temples - all beautiful if you could peel the layers of tourists and cameras surrounding them.. in this peak season might need a stretch of imagination to feel the shoguns and monks of yore meandering down tranquil rock gardens musing on life to the sound of birds (instead of clicking cameras). None of the monuments possesed the grandeur and artistic scale of say a 10 A.D temple in India or a church in Europe - but then Japan is all about minimalism and subtelty.No arguments there.

-Sakura lined canals along Kiyamachi dori and 'Philosphers Walk (Tetsugaku no michi)

-Bustling alley of Ponto Cho with small smoky eateries cheek and jowl

- And the geishas...

More on that next time!